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Heat Loss

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Introduction

If you have thermostatically controlled heating in your home, and most of us do, then your boiler will be controlled by the temperature measured in

a particular area in your home i.e. where the thermostat is placed! Regardless of how well insulated you home is the boiler will burn fuel and supply heat to your radiators until the temperature set on this thermostat is reached, before switching itself off. This does not mean that all of the rooms in the house are at the main thermostat temperature, their temperature will be dependent on the heat loss from the room, the radiator heat output of each room and the individual radiator thermostat (if you have them fitted). So the more you can do the reduce heat loss from your home the more rapidly the desired temperature will be reached and the earlier the boiler will switch off, ultimately reducing the amount of fuel you burn and amount you pay.

This is all fairly obvious, what is less easy to determine is what you should look at first to reduce heat loss, which will be the most cost effective for you, and how much should you look to invest to get a sensible return on your investment.

Where is the heat loss?

Some of the areas where heat is lost in the average home, with some of these contributing much more to overall heat loss than others are as follows, Roof/loft; The walls; The floor; The windows; Gaps in the doors; Air vents **; Clothes Dryer; Vents; Fire places; Attic hatch.  The percentage heat loss attributed to various areas of your house is usually quoted by most commentators on the subject, the numbers generally accepted are :-

The roof 25%
The walls 35%
Floor 15%
Doors and Drafts 15%
Windows 10%

**Please note that some air vents are important for your health!

 

 

 

 

 

As an observation a percentage is not a helpful way to consider heat loss, since no matter how well your house is insulated ultimately all the heat will eventually dissipate from the property, given that it is cooler outside.    It is more instructive to consider how much energy each insulation measure will save and to calculate how much money that will save depending on the fuel you are burning to keep warm, and then to calculate a payback time for any investment you have made.  Throughout this section this is the method used.

Relatively old un-insulated houses (perhaps 1930’s) are used as examples in this section of the site, since newer houses are likely to have insulation pre installed.   Two sizes have been chose, a 3 bed and a 5 bed house; clearly a 4 bed house will lie in the middle somewhere.  Keeping each of these warm for most of the year given that they have no effective insulation installed will use approximately 20,000 kWh of energy for the three bed house and for the larger house about 30,000 kWh.  The table below shows how much this energy costs with several fuel source options.

House size Estimated energy use to
heat house for a year
Gas
Electric (Std) Economy 7
LPG Fuel Oil
3 bed 20,000 kWh £ 900 £ 2900 £ 1460 £ 1540 £ 1320
5 bed 30,000 kWh £ 1350 £ 4350 £ 2190 £ 2310 £ 1980


 
Comments (4)
4 Tuesday, 10 April 2012 10:08
Billy Knight
What is the assumption of hours per day in the above table to output those figures?
Tuesday, 10 April 2012 13:09
Richard
Hi
The numbers in the article are not based on hours use per day, but on the average energy consumption per year for that type of property. The values are based on various government reports. and of course each year varies so they are also based around averaging over a number of years. In the cold winter of 2010/11 our heating bill went up 20%. If you want to look at your own situation it would be best just to look at the number of kWhs that you consume and scale the cost accordingly. The government has a vast resource of data freely available at:- http://www.decc.gov.uk
cheers
Richard
3 Friday, 09 March 2012 20:30
Laurence Lacey
If I apply too much attic fibreglass, my attic water tank freezes up.
Friday, 16 March 2012 12:23
pip gas and oil
Insulate around but not under the tank. Be sure that your tank is on wood planks or plywood, not chipboard, as any condensation on it (or leaks) will destroy chipboard. All pipes in an insulated loft need a minimum of 25mm thick lagging, not the 15mm DIY stuff.
Saturday, 10 March 2012 14:41
Richard
Now thats a pain in the neck, can you insulate arround the tank
2 Monday, 23 January 2012 20:24
Richard
good point, will investigate.
cheers
Richard
1 Monday, 23 January 2012 15:04
Max
I was surprised not to see any guidance on this topic, given that through the wall heat loss is apparently such a high percentage, and that not all properties have a cavity in the wall.
Given that those properties that don't are probably loosing an even higher percentage by this route how does applying external, or internal, solid wall insulation stack up economically.
Friday, 16 March 2012 12:17
pip gas and oil
This has been a bone of contention for years. If you have cavity walls you have has 25 years of free or subsidised insulation but if you have solid, which are, of course much worse at retaining heat, there has never been ANY grants.
I have put this to Norwich CC and the Energy saving Trust several times but it falls on stony ground.

My opinion is that ALL the grants should be removed now from cavity and put into solid wall exterior cladding.
Interior cladding is cheaper but beset with vapour barrier pitfalls.

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Site Guidance

All calculations on this site are based on current fuel prices they are checked regularly are automatically updated and were last changed on:-
19th February 2013
For complete clarity, all calculation using current fuel prices are coloured red.
The costs calculated based on these fuel prices should be regarded as 'good estimates', given that fuel prices vary in different parts of the county and at different time of the year.
The calculations also have different levels of accuracy depending on the nature of the calculation. For example calculating the energy use of a known power output TV is very easy compared to calculating the effect on energy savings when insulating a cavity wall.

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Site Symbols

Icons are also used throughout the site to indicate the level of saving or the relative cost implications associated with an choice you might make, or a tip you read or related to how your house is currently configured. These icons below.
pence lowest priority
£ 10+ Think twice, perhaps you should focus elsewhere first
£ 100+ Worth doing
£ 1000+ Focus your effort here to save as much money as possible

In some areas there are some substantial investments you may choose to make, in sections describing these we indicate with two icons, thumbs up or down, if the investment is a good one. Payback in less than 15 years is regarded as reasonable, but longer that that poor. These icons are below.
less than 15 years to payback investment
More than 15 years to payback the investment

Site Units

The main units used in this site are in the table below, For a complete explanation of any of these Wikipedia is an excellent resource.

Unit Name Detail
W Watt Unit of Power
kW Kilowatt 1000 watts
kWh Kilowatt hour Measure of Energy
L Litre Measure of Volume

Best Investment table

Measures to reduce fuel bills ROI*
Lagging 1
Loft Insulation 1.9
Cavity Wall Insulation 2.2
Underfloor Insulation 4.2
Solid Wall Insulation 15.1
Solar Hot Water 34
Double Glazing 55.6

*ROI is the time it takes in years to return the investment in fuel savings for an average gas heated 3 bed semi-detached house. The table assumes no government incentive schemes are used.

Renewable Energy Measures ROI**
Heat Pumps
- Replacing Electric
4 to 8
Heat Pumps
- Replacing LPG
15 to 30
Wind Power 14 to 55
Solar Photovoltaics 24 to 64

**ROI is the time it takes in years to return the investment in electricity savings. The table assumes no government incentive schemes are used.

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Comments, category: "Heat Loss and Insulation"


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